Bruce Taylor on winemaking today and the future of Tohu
Bruce Taylor
Chief Winemaker of Tohu and Kono Wines
TOHU RECENTLY CELEBRATED 20 YEARS . HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE PART OF A SUCCESSFUL WINE COMPANY?
I feel really proud. It’s been such a great experience since I started in 2008, with so many amazing moments. Moments such as when our wines win Fine Wine of New Zealand awards make me feel privileged to work with a team where we can produce high quality wines and be recognised by our peers. We had a few rough years like in 2008, when we had one of our toughest vintages, so I’m very proud that we got through that. I think it’s also great that we work for a company, Kono, that has strong values which influences how we treat each other and how we work as a business.
IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT DO YOU THINK SOME OF THE CHALLENGES THE MARLBOROUGH WINE INDUSTRY AND NZ WINE INDUSTRY ARE FACING?
I think the biggest challenge we are facing globally, and as a wine industry, is climate change. As an industry and as a profession, we rely so much on weather. Trying to manage conditions makes viticulture harder. The environment, unpredictable weather and the extreme changes can make vintages harder and can also make consistency and quality a challenge.
Another issue that was highlighted at a workshop I attended recently is that we are running out of space in the Marlborough region. It’s predicted that in around seven years' time there will be no more space to grow Marlborough grapes.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON MARLBOROUGH RUNNING OUT OF LAND SPACE?
If these predictions come true, it may force some players out of the market. Limited supply could also enhance the premium reputation of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
WHAT CHALLENGES DO YOU FACE AS A WINE MAKER?
I mentioned before, the effects of climate change on our environment are an ongoing challenge. Trying to manage forecasts, and impacts of weather such as rain, winds, frosts all add pressure to the wine-making process. Having to plan for the known conditions and be reactive to the one-off weather events has challenged our winemaking process. We have a traditional philosophy towards winemaking and use very traditional winemaking methods at our winery. Our aim is to interfere with the grapes as little as possible. So we have to work with the challenges the grapes, the vintage, and the weather, have given us.
CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE IMPORTANCE OF HAVING A WINERY CLOSE TO THE VINEYARD?
For me, the real benefits of having a winery is the amount of control we have over the style of wine we want to create. We have visibility over every single aspect of the liquid in the bottle, from vineyard to wine-making. It’s also fantastic having our winery in the Awatere Valley – the proximity of the vineyard to the winery means less skin contact between the grape bunches as transit from vineyard and winery isn’t too far.
WHAT KIND OF INNOVATIONS WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE TOHU EXPLORING? WHAT DIRECTION WOULD YOU LIKE TOHU TO TAKE?
As a business we have some well thought out and committed projects in place such as Whenua Ora, our land and water wellness programme. This is an ongoing journey, and I’m looking forward to seeing these initiatives be implemented. We’re in the early stages of this new programme, and we’ll be able to share more as it grows and develops.
I’m also really looking forward to growing the Whenua range as I believe it’s an important element of our story telling and really defines who we are, and our values as a business. In the long term, I’d like to see our Whenua range grow to be the hero range of our Tohu brand. I’d like to increase production while maintaining the quality and premium nature of our wines.
WHAT’S ON THE HORIZON FOR TOHU IN THE NEXT 10 YEARS
I’d like to see us expand our winery and be able to produce more wine – especially the single vineyard range. Expanding the winery will give us more opportunity and control.
WHICH OPINIONS MATTER TO YOU MOST AS A WINEMAKER?
Getting official industry recognition through awards and reviews is satisfying, and it's great for the team to be recognised in that way for the work that we do. But the feedback that means the most to me comes from friends of mine that make wine. The best kudos I’ve had are when friends text or email me and say “Dude, I’m loving your Whenua Awa Pinot (single vineyard Pinot Noir) with my pizza!” That sort of feedback means a lot to me.
The Fine Wines of New Zealand award is significant because it’s not just one vintage and one tasting and one wine show – the award goes back and measures a number of years of quality and consistency. It means a lot to us to be recognised for that long-term consistency.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE A STANDARD DAY AT TOHU?
It really varies from the time of the year. From September to February, our grape-growing is happening. We are monitoring the development of the grapes, doing lots of maintenance of the vineyard, like pruning. Around this time of the year, weather watching for frost is a big task for the vineyard managers – they work pretty hard with 4 am starts right before Christmas. Then March to April is harvest. The vineyards are busy with grape pickers and machine-harvesters. During this time the winery is running 24 hours a day, with a day shift and night shift. We’ve got grapes coming in from the vineyards, which are then pressed and put into tanks. May to June sees the end of harvest and is the time when the vineyard takes a break. This is usually around Matariki, which the start of the Māori New Year, and a traditional time for Māori to let their cultivated lands rest in preparation for the next season. Then in July and August, we start preparing the vines for the next vintage, and the whole cycle starts again.
OUTSIDE OF WINEMAKING - WHAT PART OF THIS WINE INDUSTRY THAT INTERESTS YOU?
I’m fascinated by the world of wine. I enjoy tasting wine and I like how each year, a wine will taste different according to the vintage. I’m also interested in wine from a social perspective - how people like to enjoy their wine.